By Ann M. Augherton
Herald Managing Editor
(From the issue of 11/20/03)

Cañón del Sumidero is the closest thing to heaven on earth, at least until you reach the spot where it looks like hell, literally.

The ecotouristic park, which occupies about 200 acres, supplies much of the electricity and water for the southeastern part of Mexico that includes the state of Chiapas.

Originally converted to a park in 1980, the canyon is now a tourist attraction, as well as a sad commentary on the lack of sanitation practices in Mexico. It was opened as a year-round park last April and drew some 30,000 tourists in just the first six months, according to park officials.

On a speed boat trip through the water-filled canyon, the natural beauty is overwhelming. Towering cliffs, some 1,000 meters high, are backdrops for gentle cascading waterfalls that send ripples across the mirror-like surface. Puffy white clouds cling near the mountain tops until the occasional cool breeze pushes them out of sight.

The natural moss formation called the "Christmas Tree" and the delicate waterfall called the "Bride’s Veil" compete with a variety of birds for photo opportunities.

The man-made dam, reportedly the fifth highest in the world, and adjoining hydroelectric plant powers much of this part of the country. The water treatment plant is a relatively new attempt to recycle water back into the canyon. The park boasts a restaurant, gift shop, zoo, biking paths, mountain repelling and something called a "zip ride," which is a tethered ride down the side of a hill.

As beautiful as the ride through the gorge is, the scene changes completely at the end of the park where sewage and trash from neighboring towns collect. Bottles, tires and unnamed contaminants back up at this spot where vultures circle, fish float on their sides and diseases breed. A team of people works to remove four tons of garbage every day, mostly by leaning over the sides of boats picking up the trash piece by piece with ungloved hands, or by operating a few trash-collecting barges. As breathtaking as the scenery is leading up to this spot, this polluted area can literally take your breath away.

The canyon has a dramatic place in history as well. In 1528, the canyon was "the stage for an epic battle between the Spanish and the Chiapanecan Indians, who chose to jump into the sacred canyon rather than submit to the invaders," according to planeta.com. Tradition says the Chiapa tribe hurled themselves by the hundreds off the canyon cliffs.

Opponents of the modern-day park focus on the area inhabitants who lost their land, but supporters point out the number of jobs created by the construction of the park and its continued operations. Reported squatters, who now call the area home, are a thorn in the side of park operators.

Just 12 kilometers from Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the capital of Chiapas, the canyon has become a popular add-on for many tourists who visit Cancun. Billed as a "heavy dose of quick adventure," it is also a graphic example of the effect that the lack of waste management has on the ecology of Mexico.