HERALD Managing Editor Ann M. Augherton was selected as a
delegate to the East Asia Journalists Forum in Seoul, Korea, last month. Her
role on the national board of the Society of Professional Journalists (SPJ)
took her and eight other journalists from the United States to the
conference that focused on new media, war coverage and the state of media
throughout the world. The forum included side trips to the Demilitarized
Zone, a Buddhist Temple, the Hyundai automobile plant, and the ancient
capital of Gyeongju. Following is the first of her reports.
GYEONGJU, Korea — I walked the path of enlightenment with Mr.
Park Seong-ho, executive director of the Journalists Association of Korea.
As tourists and the group of journalists tried to make the most of the time
we had on the grounds of the Bulguksa Temple, Mr. Park explained that a walk
through the compound must be taken leisurely, stopping to relish the
silence, admire the beauty and allow yourself to be enlightened.
Located in Gyeongju, about five hours south of Seoul, the temple is just
one of many tourist attractions that make Korea’s ancient capital a truly
citywide museum. In 57 B.C., Gyeongju became the capital of the Silla
Dynasty and was for the next 1,000 years. The Mongols ravaged it in the 13th
century and then the Japanese invaded in 1593, when much of the original
construction at the Bulguksa Temple was destroyed. Reconstruction of the
temple began in the 1970s, and a decade ago, UNESCO placed it on the World
Cultural Heritage List.
Bulguksa, which means "Buddha Land," was built in 528 and is called an
excellent example of Silla Dynasty architecture. The landscaping and the
natural beauty at the base of Mount T’ohamsan make it a picturesque spot.
A Buddhist Monk led the group of international journalists through the
compound explaining different buildings. After going through the "Gate of
Four Guardians," we came upon Daeungjeon Hall, or the "Great Enlightenment
Hall," where the triad Buddha are enshrined. A monk knelt and chanted on the
floor in front of the large gilt-bronze statue of Buddha. We took our shoes
off and walked in quietly to observe the ceremonial prayer, as a nun sat
near the door fingering what looked like rosary beads.
In front of the hall, two great pagodas — the simple Dabotap and the
ornate Seokgatap — stand in contrast to each other, miraculously having
survived the Japanese invasion. The highest point on the grounds is
Gwaneumjeon Hall, or "Paradise Hall," where the Amitabha Buddha, or the
Buddha of Western Paradise, sits. The view from there was like something out
of a movie — a sea of roof tiles, intricate designs painted in vivid colors
under the eaves and on the walls, and various shapes carved into the facades
of the buildings.
Korea’s tradition of Buddhism is called the Mahayana, which focuses on
concern for humanity, and is most famous for its Zen, or meditative aspects.
It is polytheistic with many distinct Buddhas. An enlightened being, or
bodhisattva, performs good acts, and at Bulguksa Temple, tribute is paid to
the Bodhisattva of Perfect Compassion, very popular among the people and
"always ready to help those suffering or in need."
According to the Lonely Planet guide book, 90 percent of Korean Buddhists
are members of the Jogye sect, which boasts 8,000 monks and 5,000 nuns, and
is a combination of the Seon and Gyo schools.
Mr. Park explained that the path, or the way out of our
captivity, includes eight components: right views; right intent; right
speech; right conduct; right livelihood; right effort; right mindfulness;
and right concentration. It was intriguing to learn what Buddhism teaches
and why.
Just behind one of the smaller temple buildings, in the "Garden of
Wishing Stones," stands an odd collection of piles of rocks and pebbles.
Tradition says if you take a small stone and place it on top of a stack of
other stones you must make a wish. This was a big draw for tourists and
journalists alike, who might have wished for more time to wander through
Bulguksa.
The peaceful aura, the beautiful fall leaves and the clear blue skies,
made a walk through the temple grounds a fascinating way to learn about
Buddhism, and a nice contrast to the busyness of Seoul.