A Walk toward Enlightenment in Korea


By Ann M. Augherton
Herald Managing Editor
(From the issue of 12/16/04)buddhist monk

HERALD Managing Editor Ann M. Augherton was selected as a delegate to the East Asia Journalists Forum in Seoul, Korea, last month. Her role on the national board of the Society of Professional Journalists (SPJ) took her and eight other journalists from the United States to the conference that focused on new media, war coverage and the state of media throughout the world. The forum included side trips to the Demilitarized Zone, a Buddhist Temple, the Hyundai automobile plant, and the ancient capital of Gyeongju. Following is the first of her reports.

GYEONGJU, Korea — I walked the path of enlightenment with Mr. Park Seong-ho, executive director of the Journalists Association of Korea. As tourists and the group of journalists tried to make the most of the time we had on the grounds of the Bulguksa Temple, Mr. Park explained that a walk through the compound must be taken leisurely, stopping to relish the silence, admire the beauty and allow yourself to be enlightened.

Located in Gyeongju, about five hours south of Seoul, the temple is just one of many tourist attractions that make Korea’s ancient capital a truly citywide museum. In 57 B.C., Gyeongju became the capital of the Silla Dynasty and was for the next 1,000 years. The Mongols ravaged it in the 13th century and then the Japanese invaded in 1593, when much of the original construction at the Bulguksa Temple was destroyed. Reconstruction of the temple began in the 1970s, and a decade ago, UNESCO placed it on the World Cultural Heritage List.

Bulguksa, which means "Buddha Land," was built in 528 and is called an excellent example of Silla Dynasty architecture. The landscaping and the natural beauty at the base of Mount T’ohamsan make it a picturesque spot.

A Buddhist Monk led the group of international journalists through the compound explaining different buildings. After going through the "Gate of Four Guardians," we came upon Daeungjeon Hall, or the "Great Enlightenment Hall," where the triad Buddha are enshrined. A monk knelt and chanted on the floor in front of the large gilt-bronze statue of Buddha. We took our shoes off and walked in quietly to observe the ceremonial prayer, as a nun sat near the door fingering what looked like rosary beads.

In front of the hall, two great pagodas — the simple Dabotap and the ornate Seokgatap — stand in contrast to each other, miraculously having survived the Japanese invasion. The highest point on the grounds is Gwaneumjeon Hall, or "Paradise Hall," where the Amitabha Buddha, or the Buddha of Western Paradise, sits. The view from there was like something out of a movie — a sea of roof tiles, intricate designs painted in vivid colors under the eaves and on the walls, and various shapes carved into the facades of the buildings.

Korea’s tradition of Buddhism is called the Mahayana, which focuses on concern for humanity, and is most famous for its Zen, or meditative aspects. It is polytheistic with many distinct Buddhas. An enlightened being, or bodhisattva, performs good acts, and at Bulguksa Temple, tribute is paid to the Bodhisattva of Perfect Compassion, very popular among the people and "always ready to help those suffering or in need."

According to the Lonely Planet guide book, 90 percent of Korean Buddhists are members of the Jogye sect, which boasts 8,000 monks and 5,000 nuns, and is a combination of the Seon and Gyo schools.

Mr. Park explained that the path, or the way out of our captivity, includes eight components: right views; right intent; right speech; right conduct; right livelihood; right effort; right mindfulness; and right concentration. It was intriguing to learn what Buddhism teaches and why.

Just behind one of the smaller temple buildings, in the "Garden of Wishing Stones," stands an odd collection of piles of rocks and pebbles. Tradition says if you take a small stone and place it on top of a stack of other stones you must make a wish. This was a big draw for tourists and journalists alike, who might have wished for more time to wander through Bulguksa.

The peaceful aura, the beautiful fall leaves and the clear blue skies, made a walk through the temple grounds a fascinating way to learn about Buddhism, and a nice contrast to the busyness of Seoul.

Copyright ©2004 Arlington Catholic Herald.  All rights reserved.


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