Check in at Wadi Feynan Eco-Lodge and get a room key and
a candle. In a remote area of southern Jordan, the lodge is lit solely by
candlelight. It’s a new tourist attraction, but a long list of previous
guests to the area dates back some 10,000 years ago, according to
archaeologists.
Six nature reserves, including Wadi Feynan, are managed
by the government’s Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN).
These reserves employ local people in the hospitality industry, as well as
in the manufacturing of eco-friendly products — jams, soaps, herbs, dried
fruit leather, silver jewelry, hand painted ostrich eggs and silkscreening.
Each has its own specialty.
The neighboring reserves of Azraq and Shaumari are havens
for migrating birds, and thus bird-watchers. A 1940s British military
hospital there will open as a lodge next spring. The Arabian oryx, an
endangered white antelope, is being bred on the reserve.
Dana, in the Rift Valley, boasts three ecosystems from
the mountains to the desert dunes. Mujib calls itself "the lowest reserve on
earth," as it borders the Dead Sea — the lowest spot on earth at 1,300 feet
below sea level. Ajloun’s forest includes pistachio, oaks, carob and
strawberry trees. Hiking tours highlight wildflowers and other plants.
With financial support from the U.S. State Department’s
Agency for International Development (AID), these reserves create "economic
opportunities in remote areas," according to Chris Johnson, director of the
Wild Jordan Center in Amman. They have become "quite a major force for job
creation and a significant sector for tourism."
The guest houses on the reserves are staffed by the local
Bedhouin community. Johnson said that although it takes time to train, and
they had some difficulty in finding a chef, the Jordanian sense of
hospitality is great. Some of the staff had never experienced a flush toilet
and had to learn that. Also, since most are used to living in tents and not
level homes, Johnson said the pictures on the walls are often crooked.
At Wild Jordan, called "a city retreat for nature
lovers," recycling, healthy eating and eco-friendly shopping merge. Nestled
on the side of a hill among other buildings, the center overlooks the Jebel
Amman neighborhood and the Citadel, the highest point in Amman. The
architecture combines simple materials, all made in Jordan, such as
scaffolding timbers, recycled metal handrails, crushed soda cans and
unfinished cement, and uses low energy light bulbs, solar panels and diesel.
The café serves low-fat healthy food and has been unbelievably successful,
according to Amer Jamhour, sales and marketing director.
This new wave in touring Jordan takes the tourist out of
the sterile hotel setting and plunges him into the realities of a small arid
country facing the persistent problems of water shortages and the
disintegration of the land. Although it can be a profitable industry, the
goal is to protect nature, while showcasing it.
For more information go to www.rscn.org.jo.