The story begins on the last day, on the eastern shore of the Jordan River, not far from where archaeologists and religious scholars believe John baptized Christ. This peaceful place, where the wind rustles the palm fronds, has a significant feel to it. A manicured path leads from the main entrance through the trees past a chain link fence that cordons off an area of land mines. Although the river has receded in some 2,000 years, stones from a fourth-century Byzantine church presumably mark the spot where, as Jordanians say, Christianity began.

In the distance a thud is heard. And then another, and a few minutes later, another.

The tour guide calls it a sonic boom, the local priest says, "They’re cleaning up."

In fact, the Israeli military is bombing Palestinians.

According to the following day’s Jordan Times, an article datelined "Occupied Jerusalem" read, "Despite a pledge by Hamas to end rocket attacks from the Gaza Strip, Israel kept up its air strikes and continued a massive arrest sweep on the West Bank."

What a sad irony to stand in one of the most religious spots in the world and to witness, just miles away, modern-day religious warfare.

Bethany beyond the Jordan

Archaeologists have uncovered remains that indicate people inhabited Bethany as early as the first century A.D. A third-century prayer hall may be the oldest Christian prayer site in the world, according to tourism information. According to the Bible, it was here that Jesus gathered his first disciples and where he spent 40 days in the wilderness after John baptized him. Just for the record, Israel claims Jesus was baptized on their side of the Jordan. The reconstructed arch of a Byzantine church, baptismal pools and a cave said to have been where John lived are part of the tour at Bethany.

Madaba

Put away the tourist map and check out the mosaic on the floor of St. George Greek Orthodox Church in Madaba. Once having 2 million pieces, only a third of the Holy Land map remains. The map dates back to 560 A.D., but it wasn’t discovered until 1884. Greek captions highlight the significant biblical spots from Lebanon to Egypt and from Jerusalem to the Mediterranean.

Archimandrite Innokentios, the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem, said, "It is important to stand on the very same soil and worship God as they did a number of years ago. Christians are not newcomers to this land. We’ve been here longer than Islam."

The middle-aged patriarchate calls Madaba "the place where the past meets the present." Known as an important Christian center, it is also home to mosaics considered among the most important archaeological sites in Jordan.

Innokentios calls his work "a humble contribution to his church and his country" as he preserves "Christian identity and witness in the holy land." Madaba has become "an ideal place for peaceful coexistence" of Christians and Muslims. Proof of that exists in the adjacent school, where Christian and Muslim students study together.

Umm Qais

Taking an even bigger step back in time, Umm Qais, called Gadara, in 198 B.C. the Seleucids took the town from the Ptolemies. Now a prime tourist spot in northern Jordan, the hilltop setting offers a panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee in Israel, the Golan Heights in Syria and the Jordan Valley.

The ruins give a glimpse of the many roles this spot played in history. It changed hands repeatedly throughout the centuries, from the Seleucids in 198 B.C., the Jews in 100 B.C., the Romans in 63 B.C., the Nabataens until 31 B.C., and later the Muslims. Remnants of an 18th-19th century Ottoman village are juxtaposed with those of a Roman city, complete with a main road, church, theatre, baths and traces of a hippodrome. Excavations and earthquakes have taken their toll on the site, but on the main road, believed to be key to several trading routes, the etched path of chariot wheels is very visible.

The church terrace shows where a square church with an octagonal interior stood during the 16th century A.D. Excavations uncovered remants of a three-aisle basilica built to the south and a fourth-century A.D. five-aisle basilica built to the west on top of a Byzantine crypt.

It was here that the Bible tells the story of Jesus casting demons from two men into a herd of swine that drowned themselves in the Galilee. On a recent Sunday, the site came to life as actors in period garb with swords and headdresses climbed on the basalt remnants of the outdoor theatre for a television production.

Jerash

Although claims are made of Neolithic finds, it is obvious that the town of Jerash is an interesting paradox of old and new. The showpiece of Roman design and construction is less than a mile away from modern Jerash, one of two main population centers in Jordan.

The town’s name-dropping dates back to Alexander the Great (333 B.C.), Emperor Hadrian (129 A.D.), Diocletian (300 A.D.), not to mention the Romans, the Christians, the Sassanians from Persia, the Muslims, the Crusaders and the Russian Circassians, all of whom had a piece of the town. Part of the Decapolis, a group of at least 10 linked Greco-Roman commercial cities, Jerash was off the trade path but became a colony in the third century A.D.

A tour of Jerash usually begins at the south gate, not far from Hadrian’s Arch, built for his visit in 129 A.D.

The oval plaza, a series of 56 restored Ionic-style columns, leads to the colonnaded street built above an elaborate sewer system. A mixture of temple ruins, remnants of 15 churches, theatres, baths and the nymphaeum — a main ornamental fountain to honor the nymphs — lend to the eclectic archaeological mix of Jerash, once called Gerasa.

In late afternoon as the sun sinks behind the columns, built to varying heights, it’s not hard to imagine a crowded marketplace and voices raised in trade negotiations.

Castle of Ajloun

A short drive from Amman, the Islamic Ar-Rabad Castle sits on a key hill surrounded by a dry moat. Built in 1184 by Saladin’s nephew who defeated the Crusaders in 1189, it is being restored. It served as a beacon in a communication chain between Cairo and the Euphrates. Earthquakes and invaders — Crusaders, Mongols and Ottomans — have left their mark. The narrow hallways and steep steps are worth the effort for the breathtaking view from the top, once surrounded by seven towers.

Mount Nebo

Pope John Paul II began his pilgrimage to the Holy Land in 2000 at Mount Nebo. Atop this mountain, just southwest of Amman, Moses stood and looked out at the Promised Land that he was told he could not enter. It was here the Bible says Moses died. "So there, in the land of Moab, Moses, the servant of the Lord, died as the Lord had said; and he was buried in the ravine opposite Beth-peor in the land of Moab, but to this day no one knows the place of his burial" (Dt 34).

A church dating back to the fourth century A.D. was discovered, along with remnants of a later chapel, monastery and basilica with impressive mosaics still visible today. The Franciscan brothers have maintained the site since the 1930s.

Today, the Promised Land unfolds like a dry blanket as far as the eye can see — from the Dead Sea, the Jordan River valley, the town of Jericho and the outline of Jerusalem. On top of Mount Nebo, a huge bronze structure symbolically combines the cross and the serpent that Moses lifted up. Elijah is also believed to have made his ascent to heaven from this area.

Dead Sea

The Jordan River once fed into the Dead Sea, but now as the level of the sea decreases each year, some say it will be dry in a half-century. At the lowest place on earth, the sea water is considered dead because with seven times more salt than the ocean, no fish can survive in it. The water and its minerals, as well as the mud along the shore, are believed beneficial to good health. The custom is to smear the mud all over the body, let it dry and then rinse off in the sea. Little cuts sting and just a drop in the eye is painful. Because of the salt, floating is quite an experience. Most everything floats, except small things like sunglasses. Years from now, my crystallized pair may be found to the marvel of amateur archaeologists.

Aqaba

The city by the Red Sea, Aqaba made the news last month when three missiles narrowly missed a U.S. navy vessel. A group linked to al-Qaeda claimed responsibility. The gorgeous seaside town offers an intriguing glimpse at Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia, just next door. The indigo shade of the water illustrates why the area is known for its scuba-diving, coral reefs and exotic fish. The town changed hands many times since the third century B.C., and in 1917, T.E. Lawrence and the Arabs forced the Ottomans out.

Wadi Rum

No trip to Jordan would be complete without a mention of the inspiration for the epic motion picture "Lawrence of Arabia." The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, named for Lawrence’s book, is the first thing you see when entering Wadi Rum from the north.

Armed with a head scarf, sunglasses and long-sleeved shirt, the two-hour jeep ride through spontaneous dust storms is an epic in itself. Some of the scenery looked vaguely familiar from the movie, but on a grander scale. The most incredible expanse of open desert is spotted with towering jebels, or hills, that change colors as the sun shifts.

A Bedhouin community along the trek offers camels for rides or photo opportunities. These Bedhouins are from the Huweitat tribe and claim to be descendants of Mohammed.

Tour guide Youssef Hilo points out "the first post office," a spot where fourth-century Naba-taeans etched notes about where they were heading on the sides of the stone hills for family members to find. Still visible today, some new additions might be called graffiti.

Lawrence’s hideout is a little more than halfway to Captain’s Camp, where we would spend the night.

The sunset at Wadi Rum is rivaled only by the sunrise nearly 12 hours later. But Wadi Rum’s most incredible amenity is the view of the stars at night.

The Bedhouin-style camp, with black goat-hair tents, straw mats and firm mattresses, has no electricity. A full traditional dinner cooked in a large metal pot underground, followed by music, dancing on the sand and a turn at the hooka pipe, or "hubbly bubbly," tapers down naturally as the bonfire itself fades into glowing embers. As a cool desert chill begins to fall, the stars pop out one by one in the night sky. Shooting stars, the Milky Way and various constellations seem only yards away.

Although it’s in the middle of the desert, the hardened sand near the camp is actually a major thoroughfare and the quiet of the night is broken by the occasional truck passing through. Nestled up against the stone hills, the enclave of tents is an intimate setting and a perfect spot for telling bedtime stories to distract from the warnings about scorpions, snakes and camel spiders.

Petra

Fans of the movie "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade" will remember well the scene of the red-stone building appearing through the dark passageway leading to it. The hidden city of Petra is even more amazing than it looked in the movie, and nearly impossible to do justice to with mere words. (See sidebar on page 21.)

Jordan could be called the safe alternative to touring the Holy Land. With a portion of biblical history within its borders, it’s a good place to start. Complementing its attractions, Jordan is home to a hospitable, peaceful and proud people.

From the carefully choreographed, yet scary, driving; to the roadside coffee merchants who serve small cups of thick Turkish coffee; to the fabulous feasts of Middle Eastern cuisine — hummus, lamb and pastries; to the symphony of car horns, church bells and the Islamic call to prayer; the breathtaking scenery, complete with camel crossing signs; and the one word all Jordanians seem to have learned, "Welcome" — a visitor truly does feel welcome.

Shukran, thank you, Jordan.

Next week: The role the Catholic Church plays in helping both Palestinian and Iraqi refugees in Jordan; an interview with the Crown Prince; and eco-tourism, a new industry in Jordan. A good resource is the Lonely Planet’s Jordan.