By Ann M. Augherton
Herald Staff Writer
(From the issue of 10/20/05)
No description of Petra, the red city of stone, does it justice. With new
revelations every few steps, its history, size and symbolism are staggering.
The journey begins at a bridge over a dam built to divert the Wadi Musa
river from flowing through the As-Siq, or chasm.
What looks like a ravine of sorts, perhaps edged by raging waters, is
really a three-quarter-mile path created by the shifting of tectonic plates.
The rock was split and the identical swirl patterns can be seen on opposite
walls. The path narrows in spots to a mere six feet across, and winds over
Roman paved sections and past an ingenuous series of water troughs carved
into the 650-foot walls. Eroded carvings of camels, vacant niches and the
reddening sand all lead to the first big find of Petra — the Treasury.
The Nabataeans, a nomadic Arab tribe, settled in the area around the
sixth century B.C. and became rich by charging tolls from the trade caravans
passing through.
The Treasury dates back to between 100 B.C. to 200 A.D. Built as a tomb
for a Nabataean king, stories of hidden treasure play into its name.
Carved from the reddish iron-filled sandstone, from the top down
according to tour guide Youssef Hilo, the façade is 141 feet high and about
98 feet wide. Disappointingly, the interior, which you can see from the top
step, is vast, yet empty.
This is just the first stop of a daylong trip to Petra. Depending on the
degree of effort the tourist expends, a day in Petra can be a walk in the
park or a true test of endurance.
Told that the view from the top of the mountain was not to be missed, I
opted for the endurance test. My donkey, Jack, decided if he had to get me
two-thirds of the way to my destination, that he would walk as close as
possible to the edge of the steep steps. Even the occasional pat on the neck
to encourage him away from the edge didn’t fail to deter his heart-stopping
trek.
But the donkeys only go so far, then it’s on foot up steep stone steps,
brushed lightly with a slippery coat of sand, and eventually across a flat
expanse. The monastery, a beige stone structure larger than the Treasury, is
the first payoff for this long journey. Built in the third century B.C., it
went from being a temple to likely a Byzantine monastery.
Spray-painted signs that read, "View" with an arrow indicate the path to
take next. High atop the stone peak are the most breathtaking views of
earth, and more specifically Wadis Musa and Araba. Even a fear of heights
doesn’t stop the weak-kneed from going that last extra few feet to pose for
a photo "on top of the world." Layers of mountains, ravines and gorges, all
in varying shades add to the spectacle.
The return trip is anticlimactic, except for a sense of accomplishment.
The path weaves around curious stones, past Bedhouins selling necklaces, a
makeshift outdoor café, and eventually back to flat ground. The colors of
the rocks change throughout the day, so by late afternoon atop a camel,
actually a dromedary — an Arabian racing camel, for the ride back to the
Treasury, the colors are stunning. Then it’s aboard a horse-drawn carriage
for what becomes a race back to where the day started, knowing that the
hidden city of Petra still has much more to explore.