Seeing the Passion Play that made the quaint Bavarian town of Oberammergau, Germany, famous is a bucket-list item for many.
The result of a promise to God in 1634 in exchange for his sparing the townspeople from the plague, the play is performed every 10 years, with a few exceptions, including wars and a new plague, COVID-19. Scheduled for 2020, the play was shuttered because of the global pandemic and the 42nd season was postponed until this year.
The inaugural performances 400 years ago were held next to the church in the graveyard atop the fresh graves of the plague victims. The large, modern stage is still exposed to the elements but the seats are under cover.
The night we attended, a huge rainstorm, with lightning and thunder, became the opening act. The iconic mountaintop in Oberammergau, the Kofel, was completely hidden by the storm. The rain cleared only to resume during the three-hour dinner break.
The production runs from May 14 through Oct. 2, with 106 performances, and tickets are purchased sometimes years in advance. The first act runs from 2:30 p.m. until 5 p.m. and the second act runs 8 till at least 10:30 p.m. (Late summer through early fall, these are moved forward an hour as it does get chilly in the mountains at night, even in the summer.)
It’s a town affair. The men must grow their hair and beards months in advance to look more realistic as the time of Christ. Only people born in the town or those who have lived there for at least 20 years are permitted to act. Not quite half of the town’s population is involved in the play, either as actors, choir members, musicians, or working on stage construction, sound or props, tailoring, or metal weapon construction. It’s a huge production, so big that the credits in the play’s program take up nearly 12 pages.
The music is top-notch. At each performance there are 64 singers, including soloists, in the choir and 57 musicians. The town of Oberammergau has worked to train both groups through choirs, instrumental groups or individual lessons.
You have to remind yourself that the actors are just amateurs. Christian Stückl has been directing the play since 1990. Completely in German, the play is easy to follow with familiarity of the story of the Passion, death and Resurrection of Christ. And an English translation “textbook” is provided to follow along. Take a booklight, binoculars and a small blanket.
Interspersed throughout the play are scenes from the Old Testament. The story remains the same, but tweaks are made every production cycle.
There are sometimes several hundred people on stage at any one time. Add to that all the animals — birds, donkeys, horses and camels — and you get the feel of how epic it is. The theatre, which seats 4,500 people, is used for concerts and other performances throughout the year.
Consider visiting the storybook town in the Alps on off years as well. The view looking over the Ammer River to the Kofel is memorable.
Read more: A pilgrimage 10, make that 12 years in the making
