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Camino pilgrims prepare with shell ceremony

Kimberley Heatherington | For the Catholic Herald

Fr. David Dufresne, parochial vicar of St. Charles Church in Arlington, presents pilgrim shells to future travelers to the Camino in Alexandria March 12. KIMBERLEY HEATHERINGTON | FOR THE CATHOLIC HERALD

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Attendees at the Pilgrim Shell Ceremony gather for a group picture. KIMBERLEY HEATHERINGTON | FOR THE CATHOLIC HERALD

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Pilgrim shells, marked with the Cross of St. James. KIMBERLEY HEATHERINGTON | FOR THE CATHOLIC HERALD

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Seasoned Catholic pilgrims have a saying: You take a pilgrimage to Jerusalem to find Jesus. You take a pilgrimage to Rome to find St. Peter. But you take a pilgrimage to Santiago to find yourself.

Nearly 50 past and future wayfarers arrived at Fort Hunt Park in Alexandria March 12, gathering at a pavilion hosted by the American Pilgrims on the Camino Capital Area Chapter. They had come for the Pilgrim Shell Ceremony — a ritual perhaps almost as ancient as the concept of pilgrimages themselves.

The Way of St. James — colloquially referred to as “The Camino,” meaning “road” or “path” in Spanish — is an extensive network of ancient pilgrimage routes stretching across Europe, with paths winding through France, Spain and Portugal. Its final destination lies in far northwest Spain at Santiago de Compostela, the city where the tomb of the apostle St. James rests.

Each year, hundreds of thousands of Camino pilgrims — 178,912 in 2021; 347,598 pre-COVID in 2019 — choose a route and set off for spiritual adventure.

Don Shaw, co-coordinator of the local Camino chapter, said the movie “The Way” inspired his first Camino hike. “I saw it three months after my soulmate and wife of 45 years died, so I was in a deep, deep, deep grief,” Shaw reflected. “I thought, ‘I need to get away. I need to have some quiet time to think, and to pray, and to figure out what my life is all about, now that everything has changed.’ And so, I walked on the Camino.”

Shaw said his journey was the most powerful spiritual experience of his life. Since then, he has walked the Camino six more times.

After a welcome from Shaw, Father David Dufresne, parochial vicar of St. Charles Borromeo Church in Arlington, blessed the pilgrim shells and presented them to the pilgrims. The scallop shells on a cord are emblazoned with a red cross. Legend says that centuries ago, some pilgrims, upon completing the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, made a final push to Cabo Finisterre, literally “end of the world.” This Spanish cape, where land meets sea, was the limit of the known world at the time. As proof of their visit, pilgrims collected shells from the beach. Over time, shells became symbolic for pilgrims and pilgrimages.

“Receive this shell, the badge of a pilgrim,” Father Dufresne said, as they were placed around the necks of future pilgrims. He then led guests in reciting the Pilgrim Beatitudes, each beginning with: “Blessed are you, pilgrim … .”

“Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you find that the Camino opens your eyes to the unseen.”

Father Dufresne has walked the Camino three times, both on his own and leading parish groups. Pilgrimages can help us “realize how little we’re in control of our own life,” he said. “We become more acutely aware of the things we can and cannot control. And when we’re kind of vulnerable — when we’re outside, and we’re walking — that’s a good thing.” Pilgrims may wake up with sore muscles and the knowledge that they need to cover more miles today — a directionality, he said, that is paralleled by life itself.

“We return from the Camino to recognize we’re still on our own personal Camino. That it’s ultimately the Lord who’s waiting for us, and calling us, and who we’re traveling to — and that gives every step directionality, meaning and purpose,” Father Dufresne said.

Statistics for 2021 show that most pilgrims walk (93 percent) and are age 60 or younger (92 percent). Others cycle or even use wheelchairs.

For those hesitating, Trisha Robertson, a parishioner of Nativity Catholic Church in Burke, has a word of encouragement. “You absolutely can do it — because there’s so many different ways to go. Just know yourself, and what you’re capable of.” To train, Robertson did lots of walking, often on hilly terrain. She knew that “if I was focusing too much on my physical capacity, it would become more about that, and less about spending time in prayer and with God.”

Robertson has walked the Camino twice — from Lisbon to Fatima in 2018, and last year, the 500-mile Camino Frances, which she completed in 27 days. She intends to return in 2024 and 2027.

Karen and Patrick Audant, parishioners of St. Ann Church in Arlington, will begin walking the Camino for the first time outside of Porto, Portugal, March 31 for 12 days including Holy Week and Easter. As active members of the Cursillo movement, the Audants hope to meet other Cursillistas from around the world. They are collecting prayer intentions, which they intend to pray for each kilometer they walk.

“I’m very open to the blessings of the Camino,” said Karen. “And as someone who likes to plan everything, there’s a lot I’m not going to be able to plan for.”

“You need to have flexibility — and this is what is going to challenge us,” said Patrick.

Both have also trained — walking several miles almost every day, often with their backpacks.

Asked what they expect, the Audants had different answers. “In terms of gifts of the Spirit,” Karen said, “I think I’m definitely looking for wisdom and peace.” Patrick said he has no expectations. “I’m letting the Spirit talk to me,” he said. “I don’t make plans. He is going to decide what’s best for me.”

Heatherington is a freelancer in Alexandria.

Find out more

Learn more about the Camino at santiago-compostela.net and followthecamino.com/en.

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